The Must de Cartier line was introduced in the late 1970s as a strategy to offer accessible timepieces during the quartz crisis, utilizing vermeil cases in place of solid precious metals. This circa 1980s Tank iteration features the "Trinity" tricolor dial, a direct reference to the brand's three-gold ring design created by Louis Cartier in 1924.
Housed within the 22x30mm rectangular vermeil case, the dial is arranged with vertical stripes of yellow, rose, and white gold tones, complemented by traditional blued steel sword hands. The timepiece is fitted with an aftermarket woven mesh bracelet features a manual winding movement.
Founded in Paris in 1847, Cartier approaches horology with the perspective of a master jeweler, prioritizing form, proportion, and aesthetic purity. The Maison was a crucial pioneer of the modern wristwatch, creating the purpose-built Santos-Dumont in 1904 for aviator Alberto Santos-Dumont and later the iconic Tank in 1917, whose "brancards" seamlessly integrated the case and lugs into a singular design.
While historically collaborating with ebauche movement suppliers, Cartier has since invested significantly in its own manufacture capabilities in Switzerland, developing a suite of in-house calibres. The brand's enduring significance lies not in technical innovation, but in creating a portfolio of iconic case shapes that are foundational to watchmaking itself.
Overall Grade: 6 / 10 | Honest Condition, Heavy Wear Production: est. 1980s Contents: Watch and Pouch Genre: Vintage Dress Watch
Size: 22x30mm Thickness: approx. 7mm Lug Width: approx. 15mm
Case: Vermeil case, mirrored sides, mirrored brancards, heavy wear and oxidation Bezel: Vermeil, integrated brancards, mirrored finish, heavy wear and oxidation Dial: Tri-color dial, vertical stripes, printed logo and monogram, medium wear Hands: Blued steel sword hands
Crown: Vermeil, push/pull crown with blue cabochon, heavy wear Crystal: Flat mineral crystal, heavy wear Bracelet: Aftermarket mesh bracelet, heavy wear Caseback: Vermeil, solid, secured by screws, heavy wear Movement: Manual Wind Caliber: Swiss Ebauche