Introduced in the 1980s as part of the Must de Cartier collection, the Colisée Ref. 590002 departs from the usual rectangular geometry in favor of a stepped, circular case.
The architectural focus of the design rests on the pronounced T-bar lugs, which frame the traditional cream dial and its classic Roman numeral track. Constructed from vermeil—a heavy gold plating applied over a sterling silver base—the case profile is characterized by its soft, rounded bezel.
Founded in Paris in 1847, Cartier approaches horology with the perspective of a master jeweler, prioritizing form, proportion, and aesthetic purity. The Maison was a crucial pioneer of the modern wristwatch, creating the purpose-built Santos-Dumont in 1904 for aviator Alberto Santos-Dumont and later the iconic Tank in 1917, whose "brancards" seamlessly integrated the case and lugs into a singular design.
While historically collaborating with ebauche movement suppliers, Cartier has since invested significantly in its own manufacture capabilities in Switzerland, developing a suite of in-house calibres. The brand's enduring significance lies not in technical innovation, but in creating a portfolio of iconic case shapes that are foundational to watchmaking itself.
Overall Grade: 8 / 10 | Great Condition, Visible Wear Production: 1997 Contents: Watch and Box Genre: Dress Watch
Size: 24mm Thickness: 6mm Lug Width: 12mm (Central attachment)
Case: Vermeil (Gold plated silver) case, mirrored finish, visible wear Bezel: Vermeil, mirrored finish, visible wear Dial: Ivory dial, printed Roman numerals Hands: Blued-steel, sword-shaped hands
Crown: Vermeil cabochon crown, push/pull, visible wear Crystal: Sapphire crystal, visible wear Bracelet: Aftermarket gold-tone mesh bracelet, visible wear Caseback: Vermeil caseback, solid, secured by 4 screws, visible wear Movement: Quartz Caliber: Swiss Ebauche