This Gérald Genta Retrograde showcases the signature complication that defined the watchmaker's independent brand: the combination of a jumping hour and a retrograde minute display. The hour is displayed digitally through an aperture at 6 o'clock, while a central hand indicates the minutes on a 180-degree arc before instantly flying back to zero. This example features the collection's classic round case in yellow gold, distinguished by a finely gadrooned caseband and crown.
Gérald Genta is widely regarded as the most influential independent watch designer of the 20th century, responsible for creating iconic models such as Audemars Piguet’s Royal Oak and Patek Philippe’s Nautilus. In 1969, he founded his eponymous brand to serve as an outlet for his most unrestrained creative impulses, moving beyond the design constraints of his work for other manufactures.
The Gérald Genta brand quickly became renowned for its mastery of high complications, particularly the signature combination of retrograde minutes and jumping hours, alongside grande sonneries and perpetual calendars. Demonstrating his creative range, the brand also produced whimsical pieces featuring licensed Disney characters, which have since become highly collectible. After its acquisition by Bulgari in 2000, the Gérald Genta name and its signature designs have been selectively revived, cementing the enduring legacy of the man and his independent watchmaking vision.
Overall Grade: 8.5 / 10 | Great Condition, Light Visible Wear Production: 1996 Contents: Fullset Genre: Neo-Vintage Dress Watch
Size: 28mm Thickness: approx. 6mm Lug width: approx. 16mm
Case: 18k YG, mirrored finish, fluted case sides, light wear Bezel: 18k YG, dome bezel, mirrored finish, light wear Dial: Black glossy dial, retrograde sector for minutes, hour aperture at 6 o'clock Hands: Single sword-style minute hand, lumed
Crown: 18k YG, beaded, pull/push crown, light wear Crystal: Sapphire crystal, light wear Bracelet: Black AM leather strap Caseback: 18k YG, solid, snap-on caseback Movement: Quartz Caliber: Swiss Quartz