The 'Must de Cartier' collection was a pivotal 1977 initiative created to democratize the brand's designs during the quartz crisis. These timepieces utilized vermeil cases and featured a wide array of imaginative dials, representing a deliberate and successful break from Cartier's more traditional aesthetic.
Founded in Paris in 1847, Cartier approaches horology with the perspective of a master jeweler, prioritizing form, proportion, and aesthetic purity. The Maison was a crucial pioneer of the modern wristwatch, creating the purpose-built Santos-Dumont in 1904 for aviator Alberto Santos-Dumont and later the iconic Tank in 1917, whose "brancards" seamlessly integrated the case and lugs into a singular design.
While historically collaborating with ebauche movement suppliers, Cartier has since invested significantly in its own manufacture capabilities in Switzerland, developing a suite of in-house calibres. The brand's enduring significance lies not in technical innovation, but in creating a portfolio of iconic case shapes that are foundational to watchmaking itself.
Overall Grade: 7.5 / 10 | Good Condition, Medium Wear Production: est. 1990's Contents: Watch and Box Genre: Neo-Vintage Dress Watch
Size: 22x28mm Thickness: approx. 6mm Lug Width: approx. 15mm
Case: Gold-plated .925 sterling silver (vermeil), mirror finish, visible wear Bezel: Rounded brancards, visible wear Dial: Tricolor gold "Trinity" motif, printed "must de Cartier" logo, light wear Hands: Blued steel, sword hands, light wear
Crown: Gold-plated beaded crown with a sapphire cabochon, visible wear Crystal: Flat mineral glass, visible wear Bracelet: Brown aftermarket leather strap Caseback: Solid vermeil caseback, secured by four side screws, visible wear Movement: Manual Wind Caliber: Swiss Ebauche